Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Sachsenhausen : (

I knew today would be emotionally draining, but wow. I was able to catch the train there without incident. I took about an hour from start to finish at the end of the line. Upon arriving in Oranienburg (the end of the line), I knew I had to take a bus which I read comes only hourly. However, the bus that I found online I couldn't find the actual physical stop. I went inside to try to ask someone, but alas I encountered my first non-English speaking German. How convenient. But, behind me was a guy I saw at the train station when I left. As I turned to go see if I could find that bus stop, he asked me in a strained English if I was trying to find the Concentration Camp and I said yes. He was totally French! I don't know if I've mentioned it before, but I've heard an awful lot of French these past 5 days for being in Germany! The French must like Germany!

Anyway, I asked if he was French, he said yes, and I said I speak French. He was grateful, as he said his English was horrible. Oh, the French and their high language standards. Anyways, we walked around for awhile trying to find the stop and were unsuccessful. I told him I read online you could walk the 2km there, but that the signs weren't very helpful. We figured with the both of us we should be able to find it. So, we set off for our 2km journey. It actually wasn't so far. It only took about 25 minutes, and we were walking slowly. He's from the south of France and came here because one of his ancestors was a French doctor and was sent here during Hitler's regime to work as a prisoner in the infirmary. I felt really bad and didn't know what to say :/ But, anyway, he was really nice, and it was nice to have someone to walk and talk with :). Funny that I came here to Germany and made a French friend. Go figure :P

On the way there, we passed the memorial for the Death March. Often when they would ship prisoners here, they would get off at the same train station we did and walk the same path we were. Through the residential area, encouraging the residents to come out and throw stones at them. It was weird to be walking that same path. I was thinking how cold it was, but every time I did, I felt guilty. I mean, here I am with three layers on and a coat and scarf and earmuffs and gloves. And they had none of that. Every day. In the winter. I just cannot imagine. 

The memorial stone:



When we got there, he wanted to go through together. But, I knew I was going to cry, plus it was a personal experience for him and I didn't want to intrude. So, I wished him a happy stay in Berlin and went my way. I bought an audio guide in English because I read online that they were very helpful. It also came with a map. Wow, the camp is huge.

The entrance:



A little history of the camp. It was built in 1936 and originally used just for political prisoners, but during the height of the regime, it housed all refugees, from Jews to Gypsies, to anyone the Reich deemed enemies. It's the closest camp to Berlin, making it a prime location. It is considered a model for many other notorious concentration camps, including Auschwitz. Its leaders almost always went on to be top figures at other camps. It was the first designed by and SS Architect, and thus has a very purposeful setup in a triangular shape, with a watch tower looking over and being able to be in shooting range of the whole camp. At its height, it was essentially its own town, with markets, gardens, industrial production, and barracks. It was originally designed to hold 10 000 prisoners, but after the first two years it became apparent that was nowhere near enough space and the prisoners built more barracks. It is notorious for being an extermination camp, and a site of inhumane medical testing and vivisection. It was officially closed in 1945, and in 1956 the German government decided to make it a memorial by removing almost all of the original structures and constructing a memorial, reflecting pool, etc. However, this was met with sharp criticism, and since then they have reconstructed many of the buildings and are trying to make it just how it was...in memory of those who perished.

Just as we noticed walking in, the camp is surrounded by residential living. These were built and inhabited during the days of the camp. Wow.


They found a message in a bottle when doing the reconstructions. Its written on two sides, from two different prisoners, expressing hopes of someday being released. Neither is documented to have survived.


There was more than enough information to spend all day there. The audio guide was so informative, and was perfectly paced. I could have taken more pictures, but I was so wrapped up in the experience I kind of forgot most of the time. Sometimes, I felt it just wasn't appropriate. I've learned about all this stuff before, but this really did just take it to another level. I knew I would get emotional. I know I'm naïve when it comes to a lot of things,  but I just cannot wrap my mind around how one human being could do these things to another. In a lot of cases, it's clear they were tortured for the pure entertainment of the guards--many of whom were never prosecuted. I don't know how to deal with the fact that as a race, we're able to do such things to one another. We all have our free agency, and can do with it what we will, I suppose. But how do so many people stray so far? How do they lose that light that is within them? Do they willingly dim it for so long that eventually it's no longer there, or is it a constant struggle to hide the light that is within them? It's scary to think that something like that is so possible with any one of us. I know I ignore my better instincts sometimes, and I know that if I do it for too long I may no longer receive the promptings. What a reminder that we need always to be striving for the right. That we need to stand up for what we know is right. Even if--and especially in these cases--if it's dangerous. 

Tower A, the observation tower. Many guards stayed here, and all prisoners entered through these gates.


They read: "Work shall make you free." This phrase soon became the slogan for many other concentration camps.


I took other pictures, but I just can't write about them. Plus, you probably don't want to read about them anyway. I'm so grateful I had the opportunity to experience this. To be in the same buildings and on the same grounds where this great piece of history trespassed. It will forever stay impressed in my mind.

This is a pretty well-known verse, but it was actually penned by a surviving inmate here, at Sachsenhausen. It inspires me to do something. 

First they came for the Communists, and I did not speak out— 
because I was not a Communist; 
Then they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—
because I was not a socialist; 
Then they came for the trade unionists, and I did not speak out— 
because I was not a trade unionist; 
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out— 
because I was not a Jew; 
Then they came for me— 
and there was no one left to speak out for me.

I feel a little down, but I feel it's also important to remember how much has changed. The memorial did a good job of explaining and tracing the liberation of the camp and its past since 1945. People have tried to become better and move on. Many have asked for forgiveness and have been forgiven. I feel it's important to remember that everything happens for a reason--not just for a grand reason. For an reason to each individual. All of these people are loved and remembered for their contribution in life, and now in death. We can use this horrible tragedy as both an point to which we look to avoid future mistakes and a springboard for future hope for improvement.

Tomorrow morning I'm off to Rome. I've to get some sleep to be ready for my long day! Thanks for bearing through my slightly depressing entry : \

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